Consider the closet a feat of architecture. In a similar vein to a bricks and mortar structure, today, the modern wardrobe is built upon a foundation of solid staples that stand the test of time and endure all seasons. And fewer pieces encapsulate this sense of permanence quite like the roll neck jumper.
It’s no surprise, then, that status as a sartorial mainstay has endured across the decades. It’s been worn by everyone from The Beatles to Andy Warhol to Stormzy and Steve Jobs; female fans include Victoria Beckham, Angelina Jolie and even Audrey Hepburn. For men, it’s become an instant smart-casual signifier thanks to its ability to dress down tailoring or smarten up a suit; for women, it’s today a seamless choice for day-to-day trans-seasonal dressing, whether worn as a uniform, with jeans, or dressed up for dinner, with trousers and heels.
And as the world gravitates towards more conscious consumerism, the roll neck continues to come to the fore as a wardrobe must-have. It’s endlessly appropriate and effortlessly trans-seasonal: in winter, it can be layered under chunky knits or slip easily under weighty overcoats; come spring, it stands on its own and can negate the need for a jacket.
Yet the ever-humble knit — this blank canvas for sartorial expression — has a very colourful history. One that belies its understated aesthetic. Originally, they were designed for Mediaeval armies on 15th-century battlefields, with the higher neckline protecting them from the heavy chainmail armour — consider it the very earliest form of layering.
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Later, it became a staple in the working wardrobe, beloved by fishermen and sported by naval officers, where it kept them cosy on deck and protected against whipping winds and ferocious tides. In 20th-century factories, it was a go-to to put under the work de travail — the utilitarian workers’ jacket.
Its origins are synonymous with manual work. Which is why it remains a hard-working hero in the modern wardrobe. It’s perfect for today’s global traveller’s suitcase: utilising it as a baseline for your day-to-day outfits is a space-saving way to pack. Function is its ethos.
It’s practical, and polished. Which is why it’s been a stalwart of the fashion sphere since the Sixties. The Beatles wore it under suits that proffered a new take on tailoring. While women wore it then with miniskirts; a look that channelled futurism as women shunned the corset and fought for pay equality. The androgynous cover-up knit — adopted also by male and female activists in the Black Power Movement in the US in 1966, which fought for social justice — became a signifier of freedom. By the Nineties, it represented counterculture, worn on repeat by grunge aficionados from Gwyneth Paltrow to Kate Moss.
Today, there’s a roll neck for every occasion. Need proof? Look to Richard Curtis’ 2003 hit flick Love Actually — costume director Joanna Johnston served up 22 knits for every mood. There are slimline ones akin to the John Smedley Cherwell or Catkin — they’re worn in the film to office Christmas parties and funerals. Is there any other item in the closet as versatile as this? “It’s really the perfect mid-layer, which is why it’s a best-selling style every winter,” says our design director Pip Jenkins. Come summer, look to lighter weight cotton versions which keep you cool as the temperature starts to climb.
For now, though, chunkier versions are ideal for having on your daily rotation, whether at home or outdoors: these weighty woollen knits are sure to ward off a winter’s chill. Look to our British wool knits for something extra special this winter: crafted from yarns mindfully sourced from UK farms. Made in our Derbyshire HQ, it travels only 90 miles from field to finished garment. Feelgood fashion at its very best.
It’s time to trust in the turnover. Because one thing’s for sure: the roll neck has endured for a reason. No matter where you’re heading, there’s guaranteed to be a sleek, soft and supremely cosy style to suit.
