What Is Merino Wool?

What Is Merino Wool?

If you look for comfort, softness and timeless style in your clothing, merino wool is a staple of any luxury wardrobe. For millennia, this yarn has been one of the most sustainable and coveted natural fibres, offering a wealth of benefits such as warmth, breathability, fibre strength, and even temperature regulating properties. 

As experts in all things wool, at John Smedley we have spent years refining our process to create the finest, most durable clothing with this unique, versatile and super-soft fibre, so you can rest assured your new favourite garment will stand the test of time. 

Merino wool remains a premium choice for jumpers, socks and more, so whether you’re looking for a deluxe fashion item or a piece for everyday comfortwear, this fibre is undoubtedly a superb choice for many occasions. 

In this article, we aim to demystify all things merino wool, and share why we wholeheartedly believe everyone should have a garment of this calibre in their clothing collection. At John Smedley, we take our wool seriously, so read on to find out how merino measures up against other types, where we source ours from, how it gets from sheep to shop, and why a merino wool piece could mean a lifelong addition to your wardrobe, with style that endures. 

Origin Story: Where does merino wool come from? 

Merino wool is sourced throughout the year from Merino sheep, a breed of sheep found in various countries around the world – the most notable being Australia and New Zealand – that produces fine wool. They were originally bred in Spain as early as the 12th century, but today you can find Merino sheep in several countries around the world. These prized sheep were introduced to Australia in the 1700s, and after decades of selective breeding to produce some of the finest wool in the world, today Australia produces more than half of all merino wool.

At John Smedley, we are committed to producing only the very best quality merino wool garments. We do this by working with the best farmers on the South Island of New Zealand, who produce extra fine wool. Getting the best wool means sourcing this a year before the garment is even created, and putting it through rigorous checks and production phases until we can guarantee the end product is of the finest quality.

From Sheep to Shop: How is merino wool made? 

The production of a piece of woollen clothing may seem quite mysterious to most – how does the natural fleece of a sheep turn into the smooth, tailored, perfectly crafted jumper hanging in your wardrobe? There are several steps involved, which we aim to demystify here:

1. Shearing: Firstly, we need to remove the sheep’s wool. We do this with shears or clippers annually, and we wait until the weather is hotter so the sheep are glad of a trim!
2. Skirting: Once the fleece has been removed, it is sorted and graded to take out any burrs, dirt or other impurities. We use different areas of the fleece to create the best fibre distribution, help the spinning process, and ultimately ensure the garment is of the finest quality.
3. Scouring: It’s time to clean the wool, which we do by washing it inside large drums to remove dirt, oils, vegetation or other contaminants. During this process, we lose approximately 50% of the sheared weight, leaving only the best quality fleece behind. We only use soap and water.
4. Combing: This is an important step in the process to produce smooth, fine wool. At this stage, the wool is passed through metal rollers containing wire brushes which comb the fibres so they all face the same direction.
5. Spinning: To turn the individual fibres into strong yarn, they are twisted together by a machine in a process known as spinning.
6. Dyeing: We dye the fibres to create colourful garments. This means treating the wool with a chemical to give it a machine-wash finish, and washing the fibres in a mild alkaline detergent. Next, we prepare a dye bath with reactive dyes which are then adjusted with a weak acidic solution that enables the colour to be transferred to the wool, but also makes it washable without the colour running.
7. Knitting: Once the wool fibre has been coloured, it will be knitted in our Derbyshire mill. This is the final step before it is turned into your new favourite piece of clothing.

If you are fascinated by how raw wool from sheep becomes clothing, you can watch our video here which details how our wool is sourced and turned into our quality products.

The Knitty-Gritty: How soft are merino wool fibres?

Normal wool ranges in texture, from softer fibres used for clothing, to tougher fibres used for things like carpets. The Merino sheep are specifically bred to create the fibre fineness we look for in our garments (known as the ‘micron’, which is written as μm). Changing the micron happens through selective breeding over many years. To help create the best possible yarn, we also carefully select the fleece sections that offer the best fibre distribution and average fibre length, so our wool is always of the finest quality.

Merino wool is so soft that it is only used for fine and sometimes medium wools. This is useful for higher quality items like high fashion clothing. At John Smedley, we use extra fine merino wool which is between 18 and 19μm. This is why our garments are exceptionally soft and lightweight.

Wool of Fame: What are the benefits of merino wool?

Merino wool is known for its versatility, so it boasts a number of benefits including: 

• Warmth: Don’t be fooled by the fine nature of this wool. It keeps the sheep, and people, very cosy no matter the weather thanks to the natural crimp in the fibres. These trap tiny pockets of air which help to insulate the wool
• Temperature regulation: While synthetic fabrics tend to remove perspiration when it has already been created by the body, merino wool does this when it is merely a vapour. By pulling vapours from the skin to the outer layer of clothing, they are removed along with excess heat to keep your temperature regulated so you don’t feel clammy, chilly or overly hot, and can wear this fabric in any weather – great for staying warm in winter and cooler in summer. 
• Lightweight: The extra fine merino wool we use at John Smedley is exceptionally lightweight, so you benefit from plenty of warmth without the bulkiness of other knitted garments – ideal for walkers, runners, or anyone who lives an active lifestyle. 
• Breathability: Merino wool is a super breathable fabric, as air can move in and out of the fibres. This is part of its temperature regulating charm. 
• Softness: With our extra fine merino wool being between 18 and 19μm, the fibres bend easily, so you won’t get irritation on sensitive skin or any prickly, itchy sensation. The fibres are naturally hypoallergenic too, making it perfect for those with allergies or skin conditions. 
• Antibacterial: Merino wool is naturally antibacterial, so you can allow odours to evaporate by letting the garment breathe between wears. You will feel fresh for longer without needing to wash it as often as you would with other clothing, which can give your knitwear longevity. 
• Low maintenance: Some quality fabrics take quite a bit of upkeep, but a merino wool garment is ultra low maintenance compared to other types of wool. Being antibacterial, your garment won’t need to be washed as frequently as others. Plus, many of our garments are machine washable – more on this below.

Wool vs Wool: How is merino different from other types of wool?

If you are not familiar with the different types of wool out there, here’s an easy guide to show you how merino wool measures up against some of the most common:

• Lambswool comes from a sheep under 12 months old, which is why it’s so smooth and soft. Although its softness is akin to merino wool, it is difficult to obtain as each sheep will only produce lambswool once in its life. 
• Mohair comes from the Angora goat, and is a highly durable, lightweight wool. However, it is not as lightweight or soft as merino wool. 
• Alpaca wool comes from, as the name suggests, alpacas. It is extremely versatile, but it is a medium-weight wool, so it’s not going to feel as lightweight as merino wool.
• Camel wool comes from camels, and is known for its unique golden colour. The camel produces two types of hair; a softer undercoat and a coarser outer coat. Both can be used to make wool, but neither match the softness of merino wool.

Sustainable Sourcing: What is the environmental impact of merino wool?

Sustainability is an important element of clothing production, as over 60 million tonnes of clothing are purchased each year. This has a huge environmental impact, so understanding the origins and production methods of our clothing can help us make more sustainable choices. 

At John Smedley, we are proud to work closely with merino wool suppliers who take great care in looking after the animals and environment from which they source their wool. One of our suppliers – located near Lake Wakatipu in New Zealand – we have been working with since 1999, and they continue to tailor their wool production to produce only the very best quality wool in the most sustainable way possible – you can learn more about this in our video.

Our ZQRX accreditation guarantees fair and ethical practices, and this includes the way our suppliers treat their sheep. Merino wool is also a renewable fibre since a sheep can replenish between four and five pounds of wool a year, which makes purchasing a merino wool garment an eco-friendly choice. Plus, all of our wool is now regeneratively farmed, meaning the process helps to improve soil health. This makes our farming processes carbon neutral, which can have a positive impact on the environment. 

With characteristics like biodegradability, and elastic fibres that provide longevity for the garment’s shape, merino wool is not a fast fashion piece for your wardrobe. High quality, well-made merino wool garments can easily stand the test of time.

To Wash Or Not To Wash: Caring for your merino wool garment

Washing merino wool according to the directions is the best way to ensure it remains in excellent condition for as long as possible. Here are some washing and drying tips:

• Dry cleaning – You can dry clean your merino wool knitwear with a professional dry cleaner to maintain its quality 
• Hand washing – Hand wash your merino wool knitwear by soaking it inside out for 10 minutes in lukewarm water with a mild detergent, and then rinsing with lukewarm then cold water to finish. Avoid high temperatures, as your garment may shrink. 
• Machine washing – You can machine wash your merino wool knitwear in a cycle with similar colours. It’s best to do this inside out on a wool setting (typically a 30°C gentle cycle) and use a mild detergent – our Wool Wash is designed for this. Avoid biological detergents as the enzymes can cause damage to the wool. 
• Drying – Do not put merino wool knitwear in a tumble drier as it could shrink. It is quick drying, so lay your garment flat and reshape by hand. 
• Ironing – Without applying too much pressure, you can iron on a lower temperature to remove creases. Afterwards, lay the garment flat on a smooth surface for five minutes before you store it. 

We always recommend reading the individual washing, drying and ironing directions for each garment to ensure you are giving it the best chance at washing well and remaining a quality item for years to come. 

We hope this comprehensive guide to merino wool gives you the insight you need to decide if a merino wool garment is for you, how to look after it properly, and why this particular fabric is so sought-after all around the world. Shop our merino wool menswear and womenswear ranges now to experience the best that merino has to offer when in combination with John Smedley’s timeless and classic style.