The Ultimate Guide to Removing Stains From Wool
Spilt coffee, splotches of ink, a drop of red wine. Stubborn stains are signs of a life well lived. We’re here to make sure stains don’t get in the way, with a guide telling you exactly how to treat them. There is almost always a way to rescue even the softest, most delicate woollen fabrics—our care experts at John Smedley have weighed in on everything from washing to storing, to help keep your luxury garments looking and feeling their best, no matter what life throws at them.
Why Is Wool Considered a Difficult Fabric to Care For?
Wool has a reputation for being difficult to wash and easy to shrink, but in truth, it’s not that bad. In fact, if treated well, wool is simple to wash and can last a very long time. Being hydrophobic (it repels water) and hydrophilic (it absorbs water), wool does need a little more attention than other fabrics. This oxymoron happens when the outside of wool fabrics repels water, while the inside absorbs it. Essentially, once water breaks through the external hydrophobic barrier, wool tends to retain a lot of it, which can make washing and drying more of a delicate process so as not to stretch, manipulate or shrink the fibres.
Despite this supposed downside, studies have found wool products to be extremely environmentally friendly. They can be worn for longer between washes thanks to their antibacterial and odour-resistant nature, and can be freshened by airing. Wool can also be washed at lower temperatures on shorter cycles which will positively impact your utility bills and the environment.
At John Smedley, we mostly work with merino wool, cashmere and wool blends which all have similar washing instructions to preserve their high quality and luxury feel. You can learn more about how to wash merino wool, or how to wash cashmere in our dedicated articles. Although different types of wool may require slightly different treatments—and you should always read the label for the individual garment before washing—for the most part, the rules of washing different types of wool are similar; they should all be treated as delicate items, and washed at a different speed and temperature than standard clothing.
Washing and Stain Removal…What’s the Difference?
Most of us put our clothing in the washing machine or wash by hand, but sometimes more precise stain removal is necessary. Bold, stubborn stains require targeted treatment before putting the item in a normal laundry load. Similarly, if a woollen item of clothing does not need a full wash but has a small stain, spot cleaning may be a better option.
But how exactly? Begin by removing any excess source of the stain, either blotting with paper, scraping with a spoon, or wiping with a cloth. Be careful not to rub in case the stain spreads. Depending on the source, it can be helpful to soak this in water for a few minutes to loosen the stain, making sure it does not seep through to the other side. If you plan to use a stain removal product, always test it out on a less obvious area of the garment to check it doesn’t damage the wool or affect the texture or colour. After you have removed or at least diminished the intensity of the stain, you can wash the item as normal.
Choosing the Right Detergent for Wool
Not all detergents are suitable for wool, and some could do more harm than good. For this reason, make sure to read the instructions on garment labels and research any products you plan to use. Products should specify if they are safe to use on wool, but many biological detergents are unsuitable for this fabric as they can cause it to thin and weaken, which will impact its lifespan.
When washing wool, a mild detergent is best, and try to avoid any that may contain the protease enzyme as this can cause wool erosion. Our John Smedley Wool Wash is designed exactly for this reason; providing a safe, effective way to wash wool garments and avoid damage, therefore extending lifespan. Our Wool Wash is also lightly scented with sandalwood and patchouli for its natural moth deterrent properties, meaning it helps with long-term storage, too.
Different Stain, Different Remedy
Not all stains are equal, some are more stubborn than others and all require different removal methods. If faced with a particularly difficult stain on a wool garment, try to avoid abrasive methods that involve scrubbing as this can cause the fabric to warp or pill. Similarly, be mindful when using strong products that promise to eliminate stains; while they could remove it, they may cause other issues such as a difference in texture or colour where the stain once was.
When it comes to wool, it’s always best to treat the stain as soon as possible. Oil and grease stains are best treated by removing any excess oil or grease with a spoon or blotting paper, soaking the garment in cool water before washing, and then machine washing according to the label as quickly as possible so the stain does not have time to set. Coffee stains can usually be removed by rinsing with cold water immediately before following the usual washing instructions. Try not to let the coffee stain dry before attempting to remove it. Red wine is another common culprit, and can be treated by removing excess liquid, rinsing the area with cold water, applying a diluted solution of detergent (our Wool Wash is best for this), and blotting the stain before washing according to the label instructions.
When to Wash by Hand
While most clothing is suited to machine washing, certain scenarios—such as travelling without machine access or dealing with a sensitive item that could catch or shrink—demand the delicate touch of hand washing.
To preserve the condition of your garments, always turn them inside-out before washing; this simple step keeps the outer material looking fresh and new. For hand washing wool, start by checking the label to follow specific instructions. Begin by rinsing your wool garment in a clean basin of cold water. Then, refill the basin with slightly warmer water (ideally around 30°C) and add a gentle detergent, ensuring it’s fully dissolved to prevent concentrated spots. Soak the item for a while before rinsing it again in cold water. If needed, repeat these steps to tackle stubborn stains and refresh the garment.
After washing, avoid wringing out the water (as tempting as it might be), as this can distort the shape and texture of the wool. Instead, gently scrunch the garment to remove excess water and then lay it flat on a clean surface to dry—this method preserves the shape and softness.
When to Machine Wash Wool and How
At John Smedley, most of our wool items can be machine washed, which allows for more accurate temperature control. When machine washing, be sure to select the correct program—merino wool, cashmere, and wool blends usually require the same settings. Select a maximum temperature of 30°C for wool and use a ‘delicate’ cycle, which typically runs at around 600 rpm (revolutions per minute). While this setting may be less effective for stain removal (you may wish to increase the rpm for stubborn stains), it is considered the best cycle for keeping wool garments in excellent condition for longer. Always wash wool garments with similar colours, and avoid overloading the machine or washing with items that might catch and cause snags.
Best Practices for Drying Wool and Preventing Pilling
Tumble drying is not recommended for wool, as it can tug at the fabric leading to pilling. The high temperature of dryers can also cause wool to shrink. While line drying is an option, it's not without its pitfalls. Pegs or folding over a line can distort the fabric, so the best approach is to lay your wool garments flat to dry. And don't forget—keep them out of direct sunlight, away from radiators, and far from fireplaces, as wool does not respond well to heat.
Can Wool Be Ironed or Steamed?
Everything looks better without creases, wool included. This can be done by ironing or steaming, but temperature control is crucial when removing creases so you don’t accidentally burn the fabric. The best option is always to re-shape the garment when drying flat to naturally remove lines and creases, but if you do want to iron it, turn the item inside-out and keep your iron on a low setting. Resist applying too much pressure to avoid flattening the fabric’s natural fluffiness, and let it cool again before storing.
How to Store Wool
Wool items can be stored alongside other clothing, but make sure they are folded or stacked instead of hung in a wardrobe, as hangers can distort the shape of the shoulders. Remember, moths love wool, so if you plan to store your wool items over summer or for an extended period of time, use compression bags to keep them protected.
Removing stains and caring for your favourite wool garments can be simple and effective when you know how. Follow these expert tips and your collection of wool will stay just as it’s supposed to be for years to come. If you have any questions about your John Smedley knitwear, feel free to reach out to our team who are always on hand with advice.