It’s hard to imagine life without knitwear. From blankets that drape decoratively across our sofas to chunky-knit socks we wear at home instead of slippers, to bobble hats and sweaters that see us through cold winters and lightweight cardigans that ward off the springtime chill — in this day and age, there really is a knit for any eventuality, no matter the tone or temperature.
Knitwear as a term has become code for versatility. Such is the ease of it, that it’s gone from a clothing category predominantly focused on sweaters to one that spans multi, from trousers to tank tops, and outerwear. Cool, comfortable, and classic, knitwear is more than a trend. Today, it’s a textural revolution happening within our wardrobes.
Mindfully crafted and designed to last for years, it’s also a more mindful fibre that is celebrated in this era of conscious craftsmanship. Whether made from wool or cotton, knitwear — a manufacturing technique that involves yarns being knitted together by interlooping yarns — has endured for a reason.
Its origins date back centuries: when most of us think of knitting, it likely evokes memories of grandmothers and great-aunts sitting with needles clacking as they watch the television, with balls of yarn spilling onto the carpet. Likely, our childhood closets contained countless homemade pieces, from Aran jumpers to school cardigans, to the blankets that festooned our early-days prams. Knitwear is the one true technique that we, in the UK, have grown up around.
Most pieces in the closet we consider to be staples today — think turtleneck jumpers, the polo shirt or even the humble cardigan — have their roots in utilitarianism. (Much like jeans, which were made for miners and workmen, each knit garment is a testament to its own relevance. And with modern craft techniques, it’s become a blank canvas for expression: think colour-blocked jumpers, contrast-collar polo shirts and cute sweater vests that add fun into everyday looks. Today, utility doesn’t mean understated: it’s not all about beige and navy sweaters, though of course, we love those too.
Britain has a centuries-old knitting history — John Smedley’s factory, which opened in 1784, is the oldest, still-operational knitwear factory in the world. The UK isn’t exactly known for its excellent weather, and so given its cold climate, and the abundance of sheep found across its verdant countryside, if you put all that together, you’d be forgiven for thinking Britain was the birthplace of knitwear.
It may surprise some, then, to discover the practice was created in the Middle East as early as the 5th century; the purl stitch is said to have its roots in Egypt, where it was used to knit silk stockings, which later became beloved by the Medici family and Queen Elizabeth I. Through colonialism, the practice spread: some of the earliest European wares were crafted for the Spanish royal family: in 14th-century art, the Virgin Mary is even painted knitting.
Knitting grew in popularity thanks to its ease: unlike weaving, it could be done without equipment by women, at home: this cottage industry boomed all across the world, especially in areas like Scandinavia and other remote or rural regions, where self-sufficiency was key to survival. Wool replaced silk and, in Medieval Europe, most everyday clothing became knitted: it was sturdy, hard-wearing and water-repellent, which was crucial for fishermen and farmers who spent days out in the elements. During the First World War, women and children in the UK knitted balaclavas and scarves to send to the soldiers: popular magazines posted patterns to bolster the effort. Knitwear became not just a practical item, but an emotional one.
It became associated with fashion in the 1920s, when Coco Chanel knitted her two-pieces and boxy, cropped jackets which wound up on the pages of Vogue: prior, it had been used predominantly for underwear. Indeed, John Smedley, creator of the long johns, began life crafting underwear. Today, best-sellers include the Maclean bomber jacket and the Stavely merino waistcoat for men, along with the Daniella, which is cut like a T-shirt, for women, which only shows how far it’s come. [The long johns were recently reintroduced to the collection, however: a testament to their enduring winter relevance. Wear them at home, for camping or on the ski slopes.]
So as the thermometer drops, it’s now possible to dress head to toe, from underwear to outerwear, in this cosy, comforting cloth. What could be chicer?
No matter what's on your agenda, one thing's for sure: come rain or shine, a trusty knit will equip you for all manner of adventures.
